Twelve Apostles

The day started as most do, with breakfast and the breaking down of tents. It had rained in the night, but everything was mostly dry now. First stop of the morning was Gibson Steps (Nothing to do with Mel, as far as I know), where we walked down to the beach and frolicked for a long while and took a bunch of group pictures.

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From there, we drove not too far away to the limestone rock formations known as the 12 Apostles, the most popular stop on the Great Ocean Road, and apparently the third most visited site in Australia (I’ll go out on a limb and guess the Opera House and Uluru round out the top three). A few of the apostles have collapsed into the sea, one as recently as July 2005.

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Next up was Loch Ard Gorge, which was named after the Loch Ard Clipper Ship, which ran aground at Muttonbird Island and became just one of the thousands of ships that have been swallowed up by the ocean south of Australia.

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I’d been contemplating it myself, and it wouldn’t happen if there weren’t at least two people doing it, so when the Diggler needed someone else to join him I decided to tag along. It was a helicopter ride over the area we’d just covered by bus. I was interested more in experiencing a helicopter flight itself, and the weather had cleared up enough to make it all the more alluring. In the end, Ruth decided to join us as well, so we got weighed (I’ve lost a kilo in the past week, although they were rounding the numbers, so it might have been less), given a quick rundown on what not to do (mostly stay away from the fast moving blades)., then got strapped in. As luck would have it, I got the front seat, although the three of us, plus our pilot, all had a spectacular view. It was a short trip, but definitely something I was glad I’d done in the end.

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Writing this all down, it’s really kind of overwhelming how much we saw – but it never really seemed rushed. We hadn’t even had lunch yet. Next up was the Great Ocean Road’s version of Nature’s Window in Western Australia. Just a hole in the rock that lets you look out on the ocean. Pretty nice. Lunch was next. Sandwiches, as usual.

We visited another casualty of erosion, London Bridge, which used to be one long bridge, but collapsed on my mom’s birthday in 1990, leaving two tourists stranded on the outer section, but no doubt making for a wonderful story to tell their grandchildren.

We visited the Bay of Martyrs and Bay of Islands, next. Tower Hill was the last stop of the night. It’s a dormant volcano, with lots of wildlife. Spotted some kangaroos, and got up close and personal with some emus as well. Much of the area used to be a lake, but Victoria has suffered a long period of drought, so any signs of it were gone.

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We set up camp at a lovely campground called The Asses Ears Lodge, nestled in the Grampians, which is where we’ll be doing much of our exploring tomorrow. I was in need of a shower, but there were none to be had. Ruth cajoled me into going for a swim with her in the pool. I was reluctant, as it was a pretty cool day (by Australian standards, at least), but the water wasn’t so bad. It was definitely a little brisk when I got out, though. We had kangaroo tacos for dinner, took in some of the koalas around the campground, and played some cards in the evening.

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Great Ocean Road

Got up before Amy today. Had most of my stuff packed already, so I freshened up in the bathroom, then got ready to leave. Said goodbye to a just-waking-up Amy, and a quite-possibly-still-sleeping Gregor, then walked down the street to the pick up location for my Great Ocean Road tour.

There were a few of us waiting, but when the bus pulled up the driver only asked for me, so I hopped on board. Everyone on the bus seemed to be packed lightly, as if for a day trip only, and not the three day trip I was expecting, so I was a little concerned that I was on the wrong bus, and just happened to have the same name as the person who should be on the bus. At the next stop, I asked the driver to confirm I was on the right path, and he assured me I was. Turns out the bus picks up passengers for a bunch of different tours then drops them off at a central place, where they then meet up with their actual tour.

After a few minutes, our actual tour bus arrived, and the eleven other passengers and I got on board. They didn’t know each other, but most of the group ended up being German.

The German’s:
Philipp, who was doing a bit of travelling before doing a surgery internship in Tasmania;
Another Philipp, who, in an effort to distinguish him from the other Phillip, quickly received the nickname Diggler (as in Dirk Diggler) from our guide;
Pia, who was studying to be an English teacher;
Ruth, who was travelling in Australia before heading to Germany to study physiotherapy;
Jonas, who had been spending time in Melbourne playing poker professionally;
Tatiana, who seemed to survive solely on chai tea and cigarettes, and spent an ungodly amount of time texting her (to use her word) lover in Perth, and listening to her headphones at such loud levels that everyone on the bus was able to enjoy it as well.

Rounding out the group were:
Katrine and Martin, a Danish couple who were going to live in Adelaide while Katrine studied, and Martin worked in a museum;
Brittany, a fellow Canadian from Golden, B.C;
Natalie, from Oxford, England, who had been in Australia for a year and was heading home the following week;
Leen a Belgian flight attendant and masseuse who was travelling around Australia, and completely unwilling to offer free massages;
Me, in desperate need of a shave.

There were only 3 single traveller’s on the Uluru trip, but this group was mostly single travellers, so it made for a slightly different dynamic. It was also almost half the size, which was nice too. Once again, it was a delightful group, and our guide, Dean, really seemed to love what he did, and I hope I’m fortunate enough to get some other guides who are as enthusiastic in the future.

Our first stop on the tour was Torquay, where it started to rain just as the bus holding my raincoat drove off. The stop was mostly to check out the various surf shops in the area. The company, Rip Curl, apparently got off the ground in Torquay, which is a sort of hub for all the surfing beaches in the area. Still after shirts, I took a quick walk through, but wasn’t really wowed by anything, and the prices weren’t great for outlet stores. Leen, Ruth and Britney had gotten some cakes at a small cafe, so I popped in there to avoid the rain and introduce myself to Ruth and Britney (I’d met Leen already). Next stop was Bells Beach. The water was pretty messy, so there were no surfers, but if it sounds familiar, perhaps it’s because Bells Beach is where Patrick Swayze rides his last wave in “Point Break”. There’s also a big surf tournament there every year.

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We visited Split Point Lighthouse next, and I silently debated with myself on whether I ought to bring my sunglasses or my raincoat while we had a look around. It looked relatively nice out, with only a few clouds over the ocean, so I opted for the sunglasses. I suppose I don’t have to tell you that I was soaking wet when I got back on the bus ten or so later. The weather really does turn on a dime here. I was sure to bring my raincoat with me for the rest of the time off the bus.

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I never mentioned the terrible flies while in Uluru, but they truly are a different beast here in Australia. They aim mostly for the face, favouring the eyeballs, eardrums, and nostrils, and when swatted away, return again quickly. They hounded us in Uluru, and people had warned me that it only got worse in Melbourne and the Great Ocean Road. Johannes, the Austrian I’d met in the Blue Mountains, had shown me a picture of a friend’s back covered in flies at Bells Beach, so I was not looking forward to seeing more of them. As luck (or possibly fly-unfriendly weather) would have it, the flies were hardly a problem at all today, thankfully.

Next up was the lovely seaside town of Lorne. As you can imagine, I spent a bit of time taking pictures of signs with the name Lorne on them, and even tried to decide if the real Lorne would want a t-shirt with his name on it, but in the end I figured he probably wouldn’t. We spent a bit of time there, but there really wasn’t an overwhelming amount to do.

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At Erskine Falls, the hill was too steep to take the bus, so we had to walk it. I always dread having to walk down to the base of a waterfall, because often times you only see a trickle of water when you reach the bottom. I’m tempted to ask the people we pass, who are walking up the steps, whether it was worthwhile or not. Erskine Falls actually turned out to be quite nice, and quite worthwhile, but, yes, the walk back up was pretty long. Rudyard Kipling even mentions it in a poem of his. We drove on and prepared a much needed lunch (sandwiches) at a small park near the ocean.

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As we drove to our next stop, a small lookout at Mount Defiance (which is where the two starting halfs of the Great Ocean Road met up in the middle), we passed the first group of cockatoos we’d see on the trip. There were a few more groups of them as we got further down the road. Eventually, Dean stopped at a small shop with a campground attached. He said it was very likely we’d see some koalas, so we went searching through the trees and spotted quite a few. Mostly sleeping, but a few were eating as well. There were also some parrots, so it was a worthwhile stop. It’s much nicer seeing animals in their natural habitat.

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Sugarloaf Mountain, and the town of Apollo Bay were next. Bimbi Park Campground, in Apollo Bay, was our stop for the night. We set up our tents and had dinner (sausages), then left the camground and headed to a small park where we took a night walk and searched for some glowworms. The worms were in abundance, and definitely glowing. Dean had us shut off our flashlights at various times so we could really see them. The worms were pretty small, and apparently not as nice as the New Zealand glowworms, so maybe I’ll get a chance to see some of those.

There was talk of a fire after the night walk, but everyone was pretty exhausted – myself included. Most of us were camping, so we settled into our tents. I had a tent to myself, which was pretty nice. There were koalas in our campground as well, and they woke me up a few times growling (surprisingly loud) and carrying on.

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Queen Victoria Market

Woke up and headed to Queen Victoria Market, located on the corner of Queen St. and Victoria St. in lovely Melbourne. The market is quite big, and filled with an assortment of stuff. Gregor was on the hunt for some souvenirs, and I was hoping I might find some decently priced shirts. Gregor lucked out on his hunt – the market has a bunch of stalls, but gets a little repetitive after a spell – but that means pricing can be competitive. We weaved our way through until we managed to get the best deals. Gregor had his Iron Maiden shirt on in anticipation of the night’s concert, so he exchanged nods with the other Iron Maiden clad folks in Melbourne as we walked around the city.

After the market we headed to Little Bourke Street to see if I could find a decently priced shirt or two. No luck. The weather seemed pretty good in the morning, but when we left one of the outdoor stores it had started to rain. It doesn’t take much for the weather to change around here.

Since we didn’t have much on the agenda for the day, we headed back to Amy’s and watched “Raiders’s of the Lost Ark” and “Dazed and Confused”. On the way, we picked up some pizza with a copious amount of toppings.

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Gregor and Amy had tickets to the Iron Maiden concert at Rod Laver Stadium, so I stayed home and did some web stuff, while watching a movie (Crash) with Monica. I watched an Australian movie, “The Castle”, on my own afterwards, but didn’t really retain a lot. I’ll watch again later. I picked up some postcards and stamps while I was in the city, but never got a chance to fill any out.

When Gregor and Amy got home we chatted about the show (awesome, in case you were wondering). Gregor picked up a tour shirt that which works pretty well as an Australian souvenir too. I wanted to get to bed early, though, as I had to be up early in the morning to catch the tour bus.

Cricket, Cricket

Okay, lots of catching up to do… here goes:

Another relatively uneventful day. Gregor and I woke up somewhat early and headed into town. We had nothing major planned for the day, other than catching “Fear and Loathing” at the Cinema In the Park (which is just what it sounds like – a blow-up movie screen in the park – where you can sit and picnic and watch a movie). I was, however, on the hunt for an external hard drive as a further backup for my photos and other sundries, which I’m a tad bit paranoid about losing. We checked out a few stores on Latrobe that we’d passed the night before, but there weren’t any major deals to be found.

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Amy’s boyfriend had given us a few passes to the cricket match at MCG (Melbourne Cricket Grounds), so we decided we’d use those and check out a game. As Bill Bryson puts it, “It is not true that the English invented cricket as a way of making all other human endeavours look interesting and lively; that was merely an unintended side effect. I don’t wish to denigrate a sport that is enjoyed by millions, some of them awake and facing the right way, but it is an odd game.”. The stadium itself was pretty nice, and fairly modern. It seats about 100,000 but there were probably less than 200 people in attendance for the afternoon game. It was Victoria vs. Queensland, which is apparently not a huge draw.

After the game (or after an hour, since cricket games can and often will go on for days [although this game would probably only last six hours or so]), we headed back to the house and took a bit of a nap. Monica came home a few hours later, and suggested that the movie might be a bad idea on account of the rain. When Amy came home we all agreed we’d skip the movie and just hang out in St. Kilda. For dinner we gathered up Monica, Amy, Jason, Gregor and myself and headed to an Indian place. I had something tasty, but I’ve forgotten the name. We had intended on watching a movie when we got home, but didn’t really end up doing anything at all.

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Union Of Soul

A completely lazy day, spent mostly in St. Kilda. In the evening, Rob, Amy, Monica, Mick, Gregor, and I went to the Union of Soul concert at Melbourne’s Atheneum Theatre.Opening up was Clare Bowdich, who was pretty enjoyable and reminded me of Beth Orton.  The Waifs were next, and probably my favourite. Finally, American-Australian, and friend of the environment and Aboriginals everywhere (or at least Australia), John Butler closed off the night.  John is pretty popular in Australia, and put on an amazing (if slightly rushed) show.   All in all a good night, with some good bands and people.  Sorry, no pictures.

Five in Five On Five

Superbowl Monday in Australia. The game started at 10am Melbourne time, so I let Gregor watch that while I headed to downtown St. Kilda to take a yoga class. It was an advanced Iyengar yoga, a style I’d never tried before. It involves the use of props (blankets, ropes, blocks) and a lot of terms I had no recognition of. I picked things up pretty quickly, though. I could certainly tell I hadn’t done much yoga of late.

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After yoga, I headed back to Amy’s house and had a shower. It was too nice a day to spend watching football, so we had some breakfast and decided to walk into the city.

We walked along St. Kilda road, stopping at the Shrine of Rememberance – a building built in the 1930s to honour Australia’s soldiers. We thought it was closed, but the guidebook was wrong, so from there we visited the Melbourne Art Gallery. There was a Modern British Art exhibit Gregor wanted to see, which was enjoyable, as well as some interesting portrait photography.

We headed next door, to the Art Centre, to check out the musician Nick Cave‘s exhibit. We thought it was going to be some of Nick Cave’s art, but it turned out to be more of a retrospective on Cave himself. I enjoyed it, but Gregor thought it was a tad self-indulgent (which it was).

We met up with Amy for dinner – eating at a chain called Nandos. Mostly chicken, but nothing terriby special. Amy wanted us to see the view from the Rialto towers, so we headed over there next. Caught a 15 minute movie that showed some of the highlights of Melbourne and surrounding area, then took the elavator to the top and took in a 360 view of the city.

Gregor and I had tickets for the Old Melbourne Gaol at 8:30, so we crossed town to the Gaol (they spell Jail wrong here), got there a little early, and wandered around “Little Italy” till 8:20 or so.

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The tour guide at the Gaol stayed in character as one of the hangmen of the jail. We were lead through the jail by candlelight, which was pretty unique. The jail is most famous for housing Australian folk hero (and murderer) Ned Kelly. Apparently the building is the most haunted in the state of Victoria, if you believe in that sort of thing.

We walked back across town to the Crown casino when the tour concluded. I spent about $5 in 5 minutes on 5 cent slot machines, and decided I’d call it a day soon after that. The casino was nice, with a huge number of slot machines, mostly all 2 and 5 cent machines. Not sure how 2 cent machines work in a country without pennies, but that’s just one of the mysteries of Australia.

We caught the tram back to Amy’s and attempted (successfully I might add) to go to bed without waking her up.

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Brighton Beach

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Got up at about 9am, which might be the latest I’ve slept in thus far. There were four of us sleeping in Amy’s room, so it was a tad stuffy. After showering and that sort of thing, we walked down to the arts and crafts market at St. Kilda’s beach. Lots of nice stuff, but nothing I was inclined to buy.

Rob and Amy decided to take Gregor and I to Brighton Beach, so we took Rob’s car along the water to the beach.There were a bunch of small boathouse like buildings lining the beach, which Rob figures cost a few hundred thousand each. It’s all about location, I suppose. We walked along the beach, which was not nearly as nice as Bondi, but didn’t go for a swim, as it was a little cool and overcast.

From Brighton we drove for about twenty minutes and grabbed some fish and chips at a small shop in Williamstown. The place was packed, so we decided to eat lunch in the park across the street, that overlooks the bay. Other than being stalked by seagulls, it was an enjoyable meal – but I think I’m greased out for another week or so. Back at Amy’s, we wanted to check out the St. Kilda’s Pride Parade.

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By the time we got down to the esplanade, there was no sign of the parade, so we must have had bad timing. We grabbed groceries for dinner, then some gelatto. The three of us are exhausted (although we can’t figure out why, since we had plenty of sleep), so we’ll probably just relax at home tonight.

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Groundhog Day, although you wouldn’t know it here in Australia. I guess they’re not too concerned about how long winter will last here.

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Amy wanted Gregor and I to try her favouite St. Kilda breakfast location, so we showered and headed to Fubar to have breakfast in the back courtyard. We grabbed some food from the grocery store after that, then headed back to Amy’s to chill out for a bit.I had noticed a market of some sort by the beach while we were walking, and since I didn’t really feel like sitting around, I headed down to check it out. Instead of a market, it was some sort of Aboriginal awareness thing. I took a quick walk through, but wasn’t too interested, so I walked along the beach then headed back to the house.

While we were in Sydney, Amy had asked Gregor and I if we were interested in going to a bbq with some of her friends. We had said yes, so we hopped on the tram to Flinders, and took a train to Greensborough, which is a suburb of Melbourne.Gregor and I are engaged in a rather vicious punchbuggy competition here, since there are still a few VW Bugs floating around (I imagine the lack of a winter helps), so it was a good chance to scan the scenery, while keeping our eyes peeled for punchbuggys. Doesn’t make for a very relaxing time, however.

Amy’s friend, Tracy, picked us up at the train station and we headed to another friend’s, Deanne’s, where we hopped into her car. From Deanne’s we headed to Melissa’s to get a few more supplies for the bbq, and then Tracy, Amy, Deanne, Gregor and myself headed off to the Yan Yean Reservoir Park.

For a Saturday the park was pretty empty. The girls had put together a fairly elaborate setup for the bbq – especially considering Gregor and I both thought we’d just be eating a hotdog or two in someone’s backyard. Melissa and her boyfriend, Darren, showed up later – and we ate our lunch. Amy’s boyfriend, Rob, showed up a tad bit later. We stayed at the park for about 5 hours, saw some camera shy birds that were either lorikeets or parrots (very bright colours, either way) then headed to Melissa and Darren’s.

At Melissa and Darren’s we sat around and chatted for a while, then took turns batting at cricket. Poor Darren had to climb the fence a handful of times, but it was good fun. It turned into a high school dance pretty soon after that, with the girls citing cool temperatures and heading indoors, while the guys stayed outside. We discussed a number of things, not least of which being the popularity of Steve Irwin in Australia. By 11:30pm it was time to head back home. Thankfully Rob was driving, so we didn’t have to take the train back. We were all passing out in the car (except Rob, thankfully), so we opted against stopping at the casino on the way home.

In Transit

Gregor was up early to catch his bus back to Melbourne. I had a few hours before I had to make my way there myself, so Louvelle, who was home and on crutches with an infected foot, and I finished the last of the breakfast food before I made my way to the airport. Probably getting a little too accustomed to flying, so I got to the airport a tad later than I probably should have, and it was already final check in for my flight. That actually worked out well, as I was able to bypass the line – and still had plenty of time before boarding.

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Arrived at Avalon airport, which is outside of Melbourne by about 40 minutes. Hopped on a shuttle to Southern Cross station in Melbourne’s CBD, with nary a clue as to where I was or what there was to do. I had finished my book on the plane, so I was hoping I’d come across a used bookstore in my travels as well. My first inclination was to head towards the water, so I walked towards, and crossed over, the Yarra River, circling the Crown Casino, and then walking along the south bank. It seemed to be mostly food courts, and restaurant/bars, with the occasional unusual sculpture dotting the landscape.

I crossed over the Yarra once more, and walked along the north bank till I reached Flinders Street Station. Fed Square, a large and Frank Gehryesque (although it is possible he designed it) area, was across the road, and there was a large tourist information building, so I popped in there for some maps and to get idea of some of the attractions. Following that, I walked up Swanson and down Bourke Street, to meet Gregor’s friend Amy.

I’d met Amy several years ago, so I was a litle skeptical that I’d recognize her at the rendezvous spot, but it turns out it wasn’t so difficult. The two of us headed back up to Federation Square (stopping at a bookstore along the way), and had dinner and a drink at the Transport pub. After dinner we took a walk by the Yarra to where three or four of Melbourne’s stadiums are. I’m not sure why a city needs so many stadiums, but there’s another one on the other side of town as well. We headed back to Fed Square along the other side of the river, and took in the Australia vs. India cricket match that was being broadcast on a giant screen. Amy tried to explain the sport to me, but I’m still not too sure I know what’s going on.

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We took the free city tram for a loop of the city, which helped give me an idea of what there is to do and see in Melbourne, then met up with Gregor’s bus at 9:45. Hopped on the tram from there, and headed to St. Kilda which is the neighbourhood where Amy lives. Dropped off our bags at Amy’s, then headed into St. Kilda so Gregor could get something to eat. Turns out we were all hungry, so we ate and had a drink, before heading back to Amy’s for some sleep.