Lijiang

Wake up and creep out of the room, so the Irish boys can sleep.  They didn’t get in until quite late.  I go to my usual place – it’s cold, so I have some porridge.  Quite tasty.  I wander around the old town for a bit, then head back to the guesthouse

The Irish guys (Alan, Wolfy and Aidan) are up, and heading to Lijiang this morning, so I find out where they booked their tickets, to see if I can tag along.  I head down to the ticket office, and manage to get the last ticket on the bus.  I have just enough time to head back to the hostel, grab my bag, and get back to the ticket office to catch the bus.

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Bus ride isn’t too bad for me, despite the Chinese guy that spends most of his time sleeping on me.  The Irish guys, along with Stephanie from Germany, are in the back row – and tell me later that they were pretty cramped.  The driver is terrible, and goes way too fast, and takes too many risks, but we manage to make it  alive.  In Lijiang, we phone Mama Naxi, to pick us up and bring us to her guesthouse.  The van can’t go into the old town, so we have to walk a bit, but it’s not too outrageous.

We check in to a 6 bed dorm at Mama Naxi (along with Bill, an American guy we met at the bus station), then head down to the common area for her dinner.  Word of mouth is pretty important when you’re travelling, and the dinner at Mama Naxi’s had been recommended to me a few times – most recently by the Dutch couple in Kunming.

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Dinner was quite good – a buffet style Chinese spread.  Quite nice, and plenty of it, for less than $2.  After dinner we walk around old town, then Bill, the Irish guys, and myself check out an Irish pub.  It’s not too great, but has a nice view of the city, and plays some decent music, so it might be worth coming back to.  The sun sets, and I wish I had a tripod to get a nice photo of the lit up hill in Lijiang at night.

Everything That I Remember I Remember Wrong

Got up quite early.  The Irish boys in my room were off to visit some villages, so they were up early too.  I told Aidan I planned on chilling most of the day and he joked that it was a good thing I was up early so I’d have the whole day to chill, not just part of the day.

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I grabbed my cds (not really sure why), and headed to Lost Angel.  Jessie, the owner, was playing some good music, so I asked who the artist was.  She wasn’t sure, but went on to say I could download any of her music if I wanted to.  I pulled out my cds and said she could take any of mine, too.  She was interested in a few, so I copied them over to her computer.

Wandered around Dali, then headed to the guesthouse and moved some music over to my ipod.  In the evening I went and grabbed a book, then headed back to Lost Angel to put some more music on Jessie’s computer, and get some dinner.

After dinner I headed back to an unusually quiet guesthouse.  The tv/dvd was free, so I threw in Jumper.  I’d read the book before, but the movie was pretty different.  Not entirely bad, but not too good either.

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The  guesthouse seems overrun with Koreans, so I spent some time talking to them.  Nice group of people, and they all seem to be heading towards Lijiang as well, so I might be seeing them around for a few days, at least.

North of the Lake

Got up and headed to the Lost Angel cafe for breakfast.  Dave, the owner of the guesthouse had recommended it, so I figured I’d give it a shot.  Breakfast was pretty tasty, and every table had a laptop, so I managed to get a bit of internet stuff in as well.

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I’d rented a bike from the guesthouse, so from the cafe, I headed north on the main road.  Dave suggested I check out the north of the island, so I figured I’d give it a go.   The ride there was pretty good – with some nice scenery, as Dali is wedged between Erhai Lake and a mountain (which also has a name, I am sure).  There were plenty of kids on the road, and a lot of them were pretty excited to see a foreigner, it seemed.  I exchanged hellos, but the language barrier was pretty tough to break after that.

I was pretty beat on the way back, a combination of a lack of fitness and a lack of food, I think.  Had a shower in the guesthouse, and then did a bit of reading in the common area.

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Wanted to stay up later, but sleep grabbed me at about 10pm, and I didn’t put up much of a fight.

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Dali

After an uneventful bus ride, I arrive in Dali.  In Kunming, I’d asked a girl at the hostel to write down the Chinese directions to my next destination, Jade Emu Guesthouse – so I showed that to a taxi driver, and was on my way.

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It was too early to check in, so I grabbed a coffee, and jumped on the internet for a little while.  The place is brand new, and run by an Australian guy – the best thing had to be the power chargers in the security lockers – perfect if you want to charge an ipod, or phone, and not watch it all the time.

I wandered around old town – it’s quite touristy, but doesn’t seem so bad, because 99% of them are Chinese.  China has made acquiring Visas a little tougher of late, because of Tibet and the olympics, so I think a lot of people have decided to skip it as a destination.  But the Chinese are in full force.

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Had dinner downtown, then headed back to the hostel to relax, read, and chat a little.

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Not Around To Hear It Fall

Gabriella’s Birthday! Andrew’s too. Got up and got ready to visit the Stone Forest. By the time I made it to the bus stop, it was 11:15am, and the next bus would be at 11:30. I contemplated for a bit, and decided against going to the Stone Forest, as it was 2.5 hours away, and the last return bus to Kunming would be at 4. It was also expensive, so I might save it for a return trip to Kunming – as I most likely have to head back this way on my way to Hong Kong.

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Decided to head north through Kunming (I was at the Southern Bus terminal), making a few stops on my way to the lake. Had some Across The Bridge Noodles, a Yunnan province specialty. I was given about 10 plates with different things on them, then a bowl of noodles and a giant bowl of broth. I assumed the idea was to add everything to the bowl of broth, and did so.

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Nice park by the lake, which I wandered through for a bit. Stopping to read on occasion. It seems very dry here compared to the humid south, so I headed to the Chinese Wal-mart, to get some lip balm. Pretty much the same as our Wal-Mart, although poorly organized. Wasn’t hit by any falling prices, thankfully. I managed to find the checkouts and pay for my balm, then made my way back to the hostel to work on this journal, and upload some pictures. “Into The Wild” was playing next to the computer lounge, so I watched a bit of that too.

Bed seemed like a good idea, so I tried that next.

Kunming

I managed to book a flight to Kunming, China before heading to see Indy the night previous, so in the morning I packed my things and caught a cab to the airport.  I was very early, so I went through a number of shops, but didn’t see anything worth buying – most higher-end stuff is cheaper in Canada.

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The flight went pretty well, I mostly read the Economist magazine that was complimentary on the way onto the plane.  In Kunming I collected my bag, and asked at information if there was bus to the hostel, or at least downtown Kunming.  They wanted to charge me 90rmb for a minibus, which seemed a little high, so I took a cab for 20. 

Checked into the hostel, then did some roaming around the city.  Took a lot of twists and turns, but managed not to get lost, which was surprising. Back at the hostel, I watched some of “Forrest Gump” and did some reading.  Low key night.

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Write Another Travelling Song

A travelling day, so no pictures worth posting.
Got up after a good rest and said my goodbyes to a few people in the hostel. After reading for a bit, I took a taxi to the train station, and bought a shuttle bus ticket to the airport. Was hoping to drive by the Beijing Hooters so I could take a photo, but no such luck.

Airport went fine, considering the language barrier. Lots of good english signage, and the people at the counters spoke enough english to get by. The flight was the same, and the food was reasonably good. Managed to finally finish reading “The Name of the Rose”, which I’d been struggling through since Auckland (just too much going on – and I did manage to read one of Adam’s books, “Tuesday’s With Morrie” on the flight to Beijing last week, so I am getting some reading done – plus the free internet at the hostel probably didn’t hurt). Started a Michael Crichton book (“Next”) my mom had sent over with Mary Lou and Adam, and before I knew it, we were touching down in Singapore.

Grabbed a cab from the airport with a nice taxi driver named Zachary. He was a cook full-time, so he suggested a few dishes I had to try, and gave me his email address, in case he’s ever in Canada. His wife is pregnant, and they’re expecting a boy next week.

While in Singapore, I’m staying with a friend of my sister’s, Adam – who I’ve never met before. He and his fiancee, Jill were going to be out at a Charity event so he left me a few detailed instructions on how to get into their condo. He said the keys would be in the puma, and I was expecting a statue of a puma cat or something, but instead was faced with a shoe rack. Managed to find the correct pair of Puma shoes, and got into the house without incident.

The condo was quite nice, and I made myself at home quickly, by doing some much needed laundry, and reading some more of my book. Adam and Jill got home not long after that and we got to know each other a little (I’d never met them, and wasn’t expecting them to be quite so tall, but they both seem great), before they headed off to bed.

The laundry took a little longer to finish, but I was finally able to throw the clothes in the dryer, and catch some much needed sleep myself.

Lama Temple

Most of the hostel was up early to head to the wall, and when you’re in a dorm room, that means there’s a good chance you’ll be up to. I woke up, uploaded some pictures, then tried to fall back asleep for a bit. After a short rest, I showered and had breakfast then asked directions to Lama temple.

Other than the times I’ve gone with people from the hostel, I’ve always been the only white person on the bus. Little kids tend to stare as well, so Beijing must not get as many tourists as you’d expect. The buses are always jammed, so maybe most tourists would rather pay a dollar more for a taxi instead of being crammed in like a sardine. Got off the bus and was puzzled at all the incense shops lining the street. China is interesting because nearly every store sells exactly the same thing as the store next to it. I guess the culture doesn’t put much emphasis on being unique.

After getting into the temple (the admission ticket was a small cd – Not sure what’s on it – I’ll have to check it out at some point), the reason for the incense shops became clear. There are many temples in the park, and at each one it’s customary to offer (or burn) incense to the Buddhist statues.

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I’m a tad templed out, but some of the statues were quite nice (but sadly all marked NO PHOTO). The highlight, located in the Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happinesses, is a 26 metre tall statue of Maitreya Buddha carved from a single piece of Sandalwood. There was a Guinness World Record plaque outside confirming it’s authenticity. Made the visit worthwhile, as it was quite nice.

I wanted to check out the Silk Market next, and the best way I could see to do it was to hop on the subway. My first attempt at it – and for only 2rmb (40 cents) per ride, I figured even if I made a mistake, it wouldn’t be a costly one. The subway cars were packed too (worse than the buses by far), but I made it to the market without much trouble. Everything is labelled in English, and it was all quite clear (and clean) – just very crowded (okay, you might not believe me after seeing the next picture).

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The Silk Market was much like the other markets I’ve been to in China. I thought there might be some actual silk up for grabs, and I’m sure there was, but not in abundance. It was fun haggling, and pretty easy to determine a bottom price, because if one person refuses to give you the item you want at your price, you can bump up your price by 5rmb (80 cents Canadian) or so at the vendor next door, because they’ll be selling the exact same thing.

Took the subway and bus back to the hostel, via Tian’anmen Square, then did a bit of web work. The tour to the wall got back a little later, and I chatted with everyone. They’d gone to a less touristy place on the wall than Badaling (where we went), and had done a ton of walking, but it sounded like they had fun.

Two new arrivals to the hostel, friends Victor (Vancouverite living in Hong Kong) and Cheryn (Vancouverite living in Shanghai) asked if anyone was up for going to a nearby restaurant for some Hot Pot. Kris (from Belgium, extending a business trip by a few days) and I took them up on the offer and headed over.

The restaurant was quite nice, and we got an assortment of meat and vegetables and noodles for our small individual pots (no communal pot this time). I’d had decent service in China, but this was exceptional. We even got some free food – and figured they must have thought we were important people for some reason. There was a bird in a cage that greeted everyone with “Ni Hao” (Hello) as they entered. The restaurant was a little classier than the place we’d gone yesterday, where the waitress (who couldn’t have been older than 13) carried a propane tank over to the table, slid it beside my legs, and placed a hot plate on the table – with a cable running from the plate to the tank. A little worrisome eating dinner with an ancient looking propane tank at your feet.

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Simon, Constantine and myself (now seasoned pros) taught Stef to play some mahjong after dinner, and eventually we all headed to bed. I had the luxury of a single room (because the dorm was completely booked), so I should be well rested for my flight to Singapore.

Springtime At The Summer Palace

Constantine and I planned to head to the Summer Palace this morning, and over the course of the day we managed to recruit Henrik (Sweden), Stef (Germany), and Lorne (Australia) to join us. After a quick breakfast at the hostel we gathered our things and grabbed two cabs to the Palace.

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The Palace is on a huge (but not Great) lake, which we walked down one side of, before heading back and visiting the northern side, where the actual Summer Palace lay. We lucked out, and for the first time in China, I was experiencing clear skies, so we had some great views after climbing to the palace.

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We walked around the palace, to the other side of the hill, and Suzhou Street which was a small group of restaurants and stores along one of the rivers running through the Palace area. We had lunch there, and paid far too much for tea. They tried to overcharge us for some more tea, but we were having none of it.

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After lunch we made our way back to the Palace gates, and negotiated a not-so-legitimate taxi back into Beijing Centre for 70rmb ($10 Canadian) – which wasn’t too bad split 5 ways. We decided to stop at a local market, and immediately as usual, there wasn’t much I was after. Was hoping for a few souvenirs, but most of the goods were just things locals would buy. There were hardly any other foreigners in attendance.

We met fellow hostellers, Simon and Ken (friends from Winnipeg) at the market, and split the group in two. Lorne, Henrik, Ken, and Constantine headed out for more shopping, while Simon, myself and Stef took a cab back to the hostel. Simon spoke Mandarin, so we managed to make it without incident.

Sat around at the hostel, then took a cab with Sevey, Stef, and Jeff for dinner. Headed back to the hostel and tried to fix Sevey’s computer so he could get onto the internet. Just as I’d given up hope on it working he managed to connect. With my mission accomplished, I hit the sack.

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Point and Hope

Not much on the agenda this morning. Grabbed some muesli and yogurt at the hostel (tasty), and then headed to Tian’anmen Square with Constantine. There was a small market street, apparently the oldest in Asia, that we stopped at first. Lots of souvenir shops, which is par for the course in China, it seems. We headed to the square next, and wonder of wonders, it was open for visitors. Walked around the square, but sadly the Mao Tse Tsung mausoleum was closed, due to the Congress Meetings. I parted ways with Constantine and headed to the Air China building next, and arranged my flight to Singapore for Saturday.

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Planned on taking the bus back to the hostel, but took the wrong street north, so I was stuck walking the route instead. Worked on this journal for a bit at the hostel, and had a bit of a nap (although if you don’t actually sleep I’m not sure it’s really a nap), before heading out again.

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Jeff (an American staying at the hostel and planning on living in Beijing for a while and opening a bar) recommended an art gallery area called 798, so I took the bus there. Had to switch buses on the way, which was tough considering the language barrier, but I managed okay. The galleries were cool – mostly modern, and unique. Not as Asian influenced as I thought they might be, but still nice to see. I took the bus back, and again managed okay. Long bus ride though, which is never fun. Lots of traffic, and on the otherside of the city.

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Magley was back at the hostel, waiting to leave and catch her train to Xian. She wanted to grab some food, so we headed up a nearby street and ducked down another side street and picked the restaurant that looked the busiest. The entire menu was in Mandarin, so we simply hoped for the best and pointed at three dishes. For 30rmb (Less than $4 Canadian) we had lamb and potato stew, some vegetarian dish (kimchi-ish), and some radishes. Not too bad for a shot in the dark – although one can only eat so many radishes.

Headed back to the hostel and got caught up on my journal, and uploaded some pictures. Tomorrow a few of us are off to the Summer Palace (if Constantine doesn’t drink too much this evening).

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