Travelog

Up early, as Adam had forgotten his bike keys on the set of keys he’s given me for the weekend. Not a major problem, as I was more or less awake anyhow. Gathered myself, and headed out the door, hoping to take in Chinatown and the Colonial District of Singapore.

While most of the time in China I thought “This could be Chinatown in any city anywhere”, the truth is the real thing and Chinatown are quite different. Singapore has a huge Chinese population, so it seemed odd they’d even have a Chinatown, but I had a wander through regardless. Other than a street market, and a fancy Hindu temple, it wasn’t all that exciting. I was expecting it to be a lot hotter in Singapore, so I have to admit I’m at least happy that the heat isn’t overwhelming.

Grabbed lunch in Chinatown, and managed to find the one spot in the restaurant where the falling rain would actually land on me. I switched seats, and faired much better. Lucky lucky, the rain also wrapped up just as I finished lunch, so I didn’t need a raincoat or umbrella (not that I had either on me, anyhow).

More interesting than Chinatown was the Colonial District. The older part of Singapore has a lot of nice buildings, some more churches, monuments, and statues, and seems a little more tourist-worthy than Chinatown did. Also got closer to the water, but it wasn’t particularly nice.

After a long walk through the Colonial District, I made my way back to the condo and lounged about for a couple of hours. Jill got back from work soon after I arrived, and invited me out with some of her friends. Her friends are playing professional volleyball in Indonesia, and have to head to another country every month to renew their visas. Only a fool to turn down an evening out with professional female volleyball players, but that’s exactly what I did. As it turned out, I had other plans for the evening.

My mother’s friend, Peter, lives in Singapore, and had offered to take me out for dinner. We had plans to meet at the gates to the condo at 6:30, so I headed down a little early, and arrived just as he was pulling into the parking lot. Also in attendance was his daughter, Priscilla. They asked what I felt like eating, and I decided to leave it up to them. We drove across town (although how far I do not know) to Peter’s club, the Raffles Club. He’s retired, so he’s got lots of free time during the day, and has been a member of the club for a long time. We had a very nice gourmet buffet – great seafood (both cooked and raw), excellent meat, and some good salads and desserts. After dinner the three of us sat and talked by the club pool, and before I knew it, it was time to get home. I was a tad reluctant having dinner with a complete stranger in strange country, but it turned out to be a very nice evening and I didn’t mind so much missing out on the volleyballers (although I am sure the volleyball players would have been fun too).

I thought Jill and Adam would have been home from dinner, but they were still out (St. Patrick’s Day, after all). Adam leant me his hard drive with a bunch of music and movies, so I copied some of the stuff I thought looked interesting to my own hard drive, then I read (I want to finish Adam’s book before I leave), and they arrived not so much later. Chatted about our respective evenings briefly, then went to bed.

I got up early and flipped through Adam and Jill’s Singapore guidebook. Jill’s birthday today, so she and Adam were off to a spa on Sentosa Island. I had some toast with them before they left – and headed out myself shortly after.

The condo is in a great part of the city, so I had a wide range of places to visit. Figured I’d start with Little India. Took a walk down to Clarke Quay, first, and had a look there. Other than the Singapore river, there wasn’t an abundance to see. It’s more of a place to go at night, I think. Adam said there were a couple of markets good for people watching on the way to Little India, but I forgot to find out which way to walk.

Before reaching any markets, I came across Fort Canning Park, which was basically a big hill in the centre of the city. Had a wander through there, but other than some giant leaves, there wasn’t much going on. Tried to get out at a few different places, but ended up in the gated parking lot of a restaurant, so I had to turn around and walk back up the hill. No fun. A Buddhist monk approached me and tried to give me a small trinket. He wanted 10 Singapore dollars for it, which is about 10 Singapore dollars too much.

I ended up stumbling across the Bugis market, which was filled with more of the same stuff I’d seen in China, but at much higher prices. Just before I got there it started to rain, so I decided to have a really good wander through, while I waited for the rain to stop. Welcome to Singapore – the rain stops when it’s good and ready. I dashed across the street to a mall, to see if there was anything interesting there. They had a Muji store, which I had heard about. It was a bit like Caban, back when Caban existed.

The rain finally stopped, so I made my way to Little India. I had decided to do one of the walks detailed in the Singapore guidebook, but first I wanted to get some food as it was nearly 3pm. Adam had mentioned a place called Banana Leaf Apolo, where they serve your meal on an actual banana leaf. The food was great (and I ordered a lot of it), but not really any better than Indian in Canada.

Little India was an interesting experience. Loads and loads of Indians everywhere, and aside from the lack of smell, I imagine it was pretty similar to the actual India. The sidewalks were very crowded with people and various stalls, so you were pretty much forced onto the road. Hasn’t taken me too long to get used to the left-side driving people this time around. Took in a few temples and shrines, and made the mistake of going into the Mustafa Market which was a little like Wal-Mart, if Wal-Mart was so busy that you had to press up against someone if you wanted to pass them in the aisle. I also stopped by the Thieves Market, which was basically a bunch of people selling complete junk. I imagine if you go often enough you’ll find a diamond in the rough, but it mostly looked like junk to me.

Headed back to the condo after Little India, and skipped out on dinner since I had a huge and rather late lunch. Spent the evening reading one of Adam’s books (“First They Killed My Father”) and a few of his guidebooks.

A travelling day, so no pictures worth posting.
Got up after a good rest and said my goodbyes to a few people in the hostel. After reading for a bit, I took a taxi to the train station, and bought a shuttle bus ticket to the airport. Was hoping to drive by the Beijing Hooters so I could take a photo, but no such luck.

Airport went fine, considering the language barrier. Lots of good english signage, and the people at the counters spoke enough english to get by. The flight was the same, and the food was reasonably good. Managed to finally finish reading “The Name of the Rose”, which I’d been struggling through since Auckland (just too much going on – and I did manage to read one of Adam’s books, “Tuesday’s With Morrie” on the flight to Beijing last week, so I am getting some reading done – plus the free internet at the hostel probably didn’t hurt). Started a Michael Crichton book (“Next”) my mom had sent over with Mary Lou and Adam, and before I knew it, we were touching down in Singapore.

Grabbed a cab from the airport with a nice taxi driver named Zachary. He was a cook full-time, so he suggested a few dishes I had to try, and gave me his email address, in case he’s ever in Canada. His wife is pregnant, and they’re expecting a boy next week.

While in Singapore, I’m staying with a friend of my sister’s, Adam – who I’ve never met before. He and his fiancee, Jill were going to be out at a Charity event so he left me a few detailed instructions on how to get into their condo. He said the keys would be in the puma, and I was expecting a statue of a puma cat or something, but instead was faced with a shoe rack. Managed to find the correct pair of Puma shoes, and got into the house without incident.

The condo was quite nice, and I made myself at home quickly, by doing some much needed laundry, and reading some more of my book. Adam and Jill got home not long after that and we got to know each other a little (I’d never met them, and wasn’t expecting them to be quite so tall, but they both seem great), before they headed off to bed.

The laundry took a little longer to finish, but I was finally able to throw the clothes in the dryer, and catch some much needed sleep myself.

Most of the hostel was up early to head to the wall, and when you’re in a dorm room, that means there’s a good chance you’ll be up to. I woke up, uploaded some pictures, then tried to fall back asleep for a bit. After a short rest, I showered and had breakfast then asked directions to Lama temple.

Other than the times I’ve gone with people from the hostel, I’ve always been the only white person on the bus. Little kids tend to stare as well, so Beijing must not get as many tourists as you’d expect. The buses are always jammed, so maybe most tourists would rather pay a dollar more for a taxi instead of being crammed in like a sardine. Got off the bus and was puzzled at all the incense shops lining the street. China is interesting because nearly every store sells exactly the same thing as the store next to it. I guess the culture doesn’t put much emphasis on being unique.

After getting into the temple (the admission ticket was a small cd – Not sure what’s on it – I’ll have to check it out at some point), the reason for the incense shops became clear. There are many temples in the park, and at each one it’s customary to offer (or burn) incense to the Buddhist statues.

I’m a tad templed out, but some of the statues were quite nice (but sadly all marked NO PHOTO). The highlight, located in the Pavilion of Ten Thousand Happinesses, is a 26 metre tall statue of Maitreya Buddha carved from a single piece of Sandalwood. There was a Guinness World Record plaque outside confirming it’s authenticity. Made the visit worthwhile, as it was quite nice.

I wanted to check out the Silk Market next, and the best way I could see to do it was to hop on the subway. My first attempt at it – and for only 2rmb (40 cents) per ride, I figured even if I made a mistake, it wouldn’t be a costly one. The subway cars were packed too (worse than the buses by far), but I made it to the market without much trouble. Everything is labelled in English, and it was all quite clear (and clean) – just very crowded (okay, you might not believe me after seeing the next picture).

The Silk Market was much like the other markets I’ve been to in China. I thought there might be some actual silk up for grabs, and I’m sure there was, but not in abundance. It was fun haggling, and pretty easy to determine a bottom price, because if one person refuses to give you the item you want at your price, you can bump up your price by 5rmb (80 cents Canadian) or so at the vendor next door, because they’ll be selling the exact same thing.

Took the subway and bus back to the hostel, via Tian’anmen Square, then did a bit of web work. The tour to the wall got back a little later, and I chatted with everyone. They’d gone to a less touristy place on the wall than Badaling (where we went), and had done a ton of walking, but it sounded like they had fun.

Two new arrivals to the hostel, friends Victor (Vancouverite living in Hong Kong) and Cheryn (Vancouverite living in Shanghai) asked if anyone was up for going to a nearby restaurant for some Hot Pot. Kris (from Belgium, extending a business trip by a few days) and I took them up on the offer and headed over.

The restaurant was quite nice, and we got an assortment of meat and vegetables and noodles for our small individual pots (no communal pot this time). I’d had decent service in China, but this was exceptional. We even got some free food – and figured they must have thought we were important people for some reason. There was a bird in a cage that greeted everyone with “Ni Hao” (Hello) as they entered. The restaurant was a little classier than the place we’d gone yesterday, where the waitress (who couldn’t have been older than 13) carried a propane tank over to the table, slid it beside my legs, and placed a hot plate on the table – with a cable running from the plate to the tank. A little worrisome eating dinner with an ancient looking propane tank at your feet.

Simon, Constantine and myself (now seasoned pros) taught Stef to play some mahjong after dinner, and eventually we all headed to bed. I had the luxury of a single room (because the dorm was completely booked), so I should be well rested for my flight to Singapore.

Constantine and I planned to head to the Summer Palace this morning, and over the course of the day we managed to recruit Henrik (Sweden), Stef (Germany), and Lorne (Australia) to join us. After a quick breakfast at the hostel we gathered our things and grabbed two cabs to the Palace.

The Palace is on a huge (but not Great) lake, which we walked down one side of, before heading back and visiting the northern side, where the actual Summer Palace lay. We lucked out, and for the first time in China, I was experiencing clear skies, so we had some great views after climbing to the palace.

We walked around the palace, to the other side of the hill, and Suzhou Street which was a small group of restaurants and stores along one of the rivers running through the Palace area. We had lunch there, and paid far too much for tea. They tried to overcharge us for some more tea, but we were having none of it.

After lunch we made our way back to the Palace gates, and negotiated a not-so-legitimate taxi back into Beijing Centre for 70rmb ($10 Canadian) – which wasn’t too bad split 5 ways. We decided to stop at a local market, and immediately as usual, there wasn’t much I was after. Was hoping for a few souvenirs, but most of the goods were just things locals would buy. There were hardly any other foreigners in attendance.

We met fellow hostellers, Simon and Ken (friends from Winnipeg) at the market, and split the group in two. Lorne, Henrik, Ken, and Constantine headed out for more shopping, while Simon, myself and Stef took a cab back to the hostel. Simon spoke Mandarin, so we managed to make it without incident.

Sat around at the hostel, then took a cab with Sevey, Stef, and Jeff for dinner. Headed back to the hostel and tried to fix Sevey’s computer so he could get onto the internet. Just as I’d given up hope on it working he managed to connect. With my mission accomplished, I hit the sack.

Not much on the agenda this morning. Grabbed some muesli and yogurt at the hostel (tasty), and then headed to Tian’anmen Square with Constantine. There was a small market street, apparently the oldest in Asia, that we stopped at first. Lots of souvenir shops, which is par for the course in China, it seems. We headed to the square next, and wonder of wonders, it was open for visitors. Walked around the square, but sadly the Mao Tse Tsung mausoleum was closed, due to the Congress Meetings. I parted ways with Constantine and headed to the Air China building next, and arranged my flight to Singapore for Saturday.

Planned on taking the bus back to the hostel, but took the wrong street north, so I was stuck walking the route instead. Worked on this journal for a bit at the hostel, and had a bit of a nap (although if you don’t actually sleep I’m not sure it’s really a nap), before heading out again.

Jeff (an American staying at the hostel and planning on living in Beijing for a while and opening a bar) recommended an art gallery area called 798, so I took the bus there. Had to switch buses on the way, which was tough considering the language barrier, but I managed okay. The galleries were cool – mostly modern, and unique. Not as Asian influenced as I thought they might be, but still nice to see. I took the bus back, and again managed okay. Long bus ride though, which is never fun. Lots of traffic, and on the otherside of the city.

Magley was back at the hostel, waiting to leave and catch her train to Xian. She wanted to grab some food, so we headed up a nearby street and ducked down another side street and picked the restaurant that looked the busiest. The entire menu was in Mandarin, so we simply hoped for the best and pointed at three dishes. For 30rmb (Less than $4 Canadian) we had lamb and potato stew, some vegetarian dish (kimchi-ish), and some radishes. Not too bad for a shot in the dark – although one can only eat so many radishes.

Headed back to the hostel and got caught up on my journal, and uploaded some pictures. Tomorrow a few of us are off to the Summer Palace (if Constantine doesn’t drink too much this evening).

Took my time in the morning, then headed to Hue Han Lake, to see if I could find something to eat and get some money from the bank. I tried to get money yesterday before and had some issues, and today was no different. Decided to head back to the hostel and see if there was a lock on my card of some sort, but all was clear. She suggested I try a lower amount, which I did, and it worked – but I am still not sure why I couldn’t get the first amount – since it really wasn’t much. Thankfully, traveling in Beijing is quite cheap.

After getting a bit of money I headed to Bei Hei park, and had a walk around the lake, and then up to the White Pagoda. I decided I’d like to check out one of the markets (I was going into shopping withdrawls), so I headed towards the Pearl Market, but determined it was further than I thought – so I ducked through the Oriental Plaza (high end shopping mall) back to Wanfuching, and took a bus back to the hostel.

Met my two roommates, Constantine (Seattle) and Magley (Ottawa). We then ended up meeting Sevey (Florida), who had been living in Taiwan for 4 years, and had just moved to Beijing. He spoke fluent mandarin, which was handy. He also knew how to play mahjong, so he taught Magley, Constantine, and myself.

After playing a few games, we decided to grab some dinner. With a fluent guide, eating was a lot easier. Sevey did the ordering, and got us some interesting dishes – pig paws, fish, chicken soup (complete with head). The meal came to about $20 Canadian for the four of us. Not too bad, but I’m going to try and eat for less tomorrow.

Breakfast at the hotel again, and then we checked out. Something I am growing quite accustomed to. It’s always nice to spend a few more days in one place, though – as in New Zealand I was in a new bed almost every day. Fransis, Elizabeth, Christiaan, Adam, Mary Lou, Gabriella, and Victoria are heading back to Shanghai in the evening, so I checked out a few hostels online to see if Wendy could yay or nay their locations.

Wendy thought it would be nice for us to see the Temple of Heaven in the morning, when the locals show up for dancing and exercise and generally being social. Ball room dancing, dancing with scarves (they looked like scarves to me), exercising, card playing, dominoes, but not a
lot of Tai Chi, which I was expecting to see.

Next, we headed north, past the Forbidden City and Tian’anmen Square to the Drum Tower, which lies along the meridian that runs through the Forbidden City, the square, and Jingshan. We were introduced to a guide for the area, Lucy. The drums were used to let people know the time in the days before wristwatches and mobile phones.

At the base of the drum tower, we all got on rickshaws (two to a rickshaw, I drew the short stick and was paired up with Gabriella) and made our way through the hutongs. At one point we stopped and went into a woman’s house to see how people lived in the hutongs. Well kept, but definitely not what we are used to in Canada. The woman was lucky enough to have a shower, but has to use a communal bathroom that everyone else in the hutong uses.

There was still time before everyone had to head to the airport, so Wendy took us to Jingshan park. There’s a large hill in the park, which we climbed to get a nice view of the Forbidden City. Unfortunately, it’s never really clear in Beijing, so our view wasn’t all that great – but you could stil see most of the Forbidden City, and the surrounding areas. The girls and Christiaan got some traditional Chinese costumes, which made for some nice photographs.

After the park, it was time for everyone to head to the airport. With Wendy’s help I was parked in front of the alley to the Hutong that housed my hostel, and pointed in the general direction. It was sad to see everyone go, as the last week had been quite fun – and the hospitality outstanding, but I was also looking forward to getting back into the hostel routine as well.

I made my way through the hutong, and found my hostel without incident. Thankfully they had rooms available. I asked about nearby bookstores, and got sent back to Wanfuching Pedestrian mall. I took the bus this time, which was cheap (about 20 cents a ride) and packed – so packed I was afraid that even if I figured out the right place to get off, I might not physically be able to get off the bus.

Got off the bus and checked out the bookstore. I wanted a Beijing guide, but didn’t see any I liked. I was tempted to get one on Malaysia and Singapore, but put it off for now. On the way back to the hostel (crowded bus again), I stopped and grabbed some water. I think I paid more than I should have, but by Canadian standards it was still relatively cheap.

Chatted with my mom when I got back to the hostel, and watched an episode of Lost, then caught some much needed sleep.

Another early day. I hopped in the shower first, then uploaded some photos. We were going to leave the hotel and find somewhere for breakfast, since none of us wanted to do the buffet at the hotel, but then we discovered the hotel offered a la carte as well. In the end, we all ended up getting the buffet anyhow.

Our destination for the day was the Badaling section of the great wall. If I had a choice, I’d have preferred some of the less touristy areas, but time was of the essence. On the way to the wall we passed Olympic Park, which is very near to completion. Birds Nest Stadium looks pretty cool, as does the swimming area. They have yet to open the area to the public, as they want it to be a surprise when the olympics begin in just over 150 days.

At the wall, everyone opted for the easy route. Even still, the climb was pretty steep at times, and must be quite interesting in slippery conditions. We made it to the Hero tower, and now we are all men (or so the Chinese believe). I don’t really feel all that different. Adam received a not so nice comment from one of the security guards on the wall, but otherwise it was all good.

We visited the Ming tombs next, which was where many of the emperors had been buried. Huge spacious tombs buried under the earth. There was also a nice, stone statue lined, walk, which was part of the procession that the (dead) emperors took on the way to being buried.

In the evening, I went to the corner store with Gabriella to stock up on water and snacks, then the adults (which includes me – go figure!) went out for dinner. We went to a hot pot (kind of like a Chinese fondue without the cheese) place, while the kids stayed home and wreaked havoc (although they did a good job of cleaning up afterwards).