Travelog

Had a lousy sleep.  Someone somewhere on the train was smoking, which is never good, and the people in my car were pretty chatty.  In Hanoi, I searched for Marilyn, then decided it was futile and got a motorcycle to the hotel.  Left my bag there, then went in search of some breakfast.  Following breakfast, I went and grabbed a coffee at another cafe.  I think I’ve become slightly addicted to putting condensed milk in coffee.  At first it seemed a horrid idea, but it’s quite tasty (and sweet).

After breakfast I headed to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, to check out Ho Chi Minh on display.  His mausoleum was quite cool, which was refreshing.  I thought it might be a little more solemn, with a few people crying, or something of that sort, but instead we were just funneled through to the heat of the outdoors on the other side.

I checked out the Ho Chi Minh museum next, which was quite boring.  Apparently there’s a museum in every big town, which doesn’t surprise me too much.  There were a lot of curious art displays in the museum, which seemed out of place.

After the museum, I claimed my bag (no photos, no bags allowed) and hired a motorcycle to the post office.  At the post office, someone came up and offered to help me get some stamps. I tried to get some padded envelopes too, but they don’t seem to exist in Vietnam.  In the end I think the guy wanted some money for helping me, but I really couldn’t figure out what he was trying to tell me, so I just thanked him and walked off.

Back at the hotel, the internet wasn’t working, so I got on all fours and tried to fix the problem.  I managed in the end, much to the delight of the owner, who said the internet had been down since the evening I headed to Sapa.  In the end, the secret was to plug in the hub.  With power, comes internet.

Now with two books to trade, I figured I should be able to get a new one in trade.  I headed to a shop I’d been at before, to see if they still had a title I was after.  They did, but since one of the books was a copy, I still had to pay a bit for the new title.  After that I got back to the hotel in time to catch the taxi to the bus terminal.  The bus to Hoi An was going to take 12 hours.  Not something I was looking too forward to, but at least it was a sleeper bus.

The sleeper bus wasn’t that comfortable, but probably better in the end then a regular bus.  I found out at the bus terminal that I actually wouldn’t be in Hoi An till about 5pm, as their was a layover in Hue.  I met a French guy, named Philippe, who was only going about two hours away, but we discussed possibly meeting up again in Hoi An.  At one point, I was awoken by a bang, and showered with what confetti, or something similar.  Turned out in the end to be tiny bits of shattered glass – seems something had hit the window of the bus leaving a sizable hole.  They patched it up with some tape, then swept the bus (and me) of glass.

No trek in the morning, contrary to what I’d been told, so I wandered around the city again. Very small, and not much to see. I tried the internet, but the computers were dreadfully slow. I did some reading at the hotel, and eventually met up with the Danes and our guide for lunch. After lunch, we had to kill even more time, so we waited around for a bit before finally heading to the Cat Cat village.

It was a downhill walk, which meant an inevitable uphill walk. Lovely waterfall at the base (no idea where the water came from, really). We were offered a ride up by motorbike, but we all figured some exercise would do us good, and walked up on our own. Not so bad, in the end – but maybe I’ll feel it tomorrow? With a trip back to Hanoi in the sleeper car, I’m guessing I’ll have a difficult time determining the source of any aches and pains, anyhow.

After returning to the hotel, we hung around for a bit, then decided to go grab a bit of food at the restaurant nearby. It was brand new, and run by an Australian fellow, who we chatted with for a bit. After our snack and hot chocolate (it’s quite cool in Sapa – but probably about 20 degrees or so – just seems cool by comparison to Southeast Asian temperatures) we headed back to the hotel. The girls had another day, so I bid them goodbye and got in a minibus to the train station. Another woman from the hotel, Marilyn from Singapore, was also going to the train station, and we both had a meal ticket to cash in at a restaurant downtown. We grabbed some food and tried to kill some time – we had about 3 hours before the train was ready to depart.

Eventually we boarded, parting ways onto our separate cars. I was at the highest level this time, so I got settled for the night.

Stepping off the train, the first people I ran into were Ceceile and Louise, from the Halong trip. Turns out they were headed to the same hotel, so we all got into the same minibus and made our way there. At the hotel, there was a group of hill tribe people waiting for us. They greeted us, and asked the questions we’d hear asked over the next couple of days “Where are you from?”, What’s your name?”, “How many brothers, how many sisters?”, “How old are you?”, followed by a “Oh, very young!” after any answer. There English was really quite good, for a bunch of people who live in shacks in the hills of Vietnam.

For some reason, I never quite determined, the Danes and I were ushered back onto the bus, and taken to another hotel. Not as fancy looking, but still not too shabby – we checked in, showered, and met in the restaurant for lunch. Next we met our guide, and headed out for our first trek.

Accompanying us on the trek were three tribeswoman, with a few others popping in to say hello on occasion. Their village was 7kms away, but they make the trek daily. We kept waiting for them to spring a “Can you give me some money” on us, but they didn’t. Of course, when we got to their village they were keen to sell us some wares. The girls gave in, but I wasn’t really keen on anything. Most of all, not too keen on carrying it for the next little while.

We stopped at the guesthouse where the girls would be spending the night. There were a bunch of traditional garments around,and the girls played dressup, and forced (yes, forced) me to dress up too. After a couple of hours of sitting around there, I said goodbye and headed back to Sapa by motorbike.

Dinner wasn’t until 7, so I wandered around the city, hoping to find Lynette and Li Sa, but with no luck. The hilltribe girls still in the city tried to sell me their wares. One lady, who looked to be about 70, but was probably younger, offered me marijuana, coke, and opium. “No thanks”, “No thanks”, “No thanks”. A younger girl, 16, although she looked much younger, struggled to grasp the notion that I didn’t want anything. First she told me she was getting married the next day, to a boy who she loved, but didn’t do anything but smoke cigarettes and talk to his friends. Then she told me that she was actually never likely to get married, because it was cost a possible suitor too much money. Approximately $100, she told me. At 7, I ate dinner with the hotel staff. Good feast, but way too much food – as they kept adding more and more to my plate. I was exhausted afterwards, so I headed to sleep soon after.

With my precarious sleeping position, it wasn’t too hard to get up early and try and catch the sunrise.  Much to my dismay, it was too misty, once again, for a proper sunrise.  I tried getting back to sleep, but that proved difficult, even with my handy Virgin Airline provided sleep mask.

Our first stop of the day was Cat Ba, to drop off the American’s and Australian.  I thought we might have some time to explore the island, but sadly we did not.  The boat was loaded up with a few fresh souls – Vietnamese by the looks of them.  We headed back to Halong City, and sat for too long at the terminal, once again, waiting to go for lunch.

Lunch was quick, and basic.  I ate with Lynette and Li Sa, then we got back on our bus and made our way back to Hanoi. An uneventful journey, save for the aftermath of an accident we rolled by. A motorbike stood perfectly erect, wedged under a dump truck.  Someone, police perhaps, used pink chalk to trace a few items on the ground, including a strewn bicycle and a handbag.  No sign of the riders, but hopefully things weren’t as bad as they looked like they might be.

I had some hours to kill in Hanoi, so, after saying goodbye to Henri, and “see you later” to Lynette and Li Sa, who I figured I’d see on the train to Sapa, I dropped my bag off at the hotel, and went in search of a book.  No luck getting a decent trade on my book, so I gave up, figuring I’d stick solely with the not-so-great book I was currently reading.  As I headed back to the hotel, one of the fellows selling books on the street offered me a selection from his box of photocopied books.  I bargained him down on a copy of Catch 22, which was great – even though I’ve got even more to weigh down my new bag now.

One of the guys at the hotel took me to the train station on his motorcycle.  Crazy driver, but I arrived in one piece.  Sat in the train station for a bit, but no sign of anyone from the Halong trip.  Enough people filed past, that I assumed the train had arrived, so I grabbed my bags and found my spot.  It took a while for others to join me in the sleeping car, but they were all Vietnamese, and only one, an older lady, spoke any English.  She was a music teacher, and proceeded to pull out her video camera and show me a performance of her on guitar in some Hanoi bar.  I pressed the camera to my ear, but it was pretty difficult to hear.  She told me I had to come see her at the bar when I was back in Hanoi.

The sleeper cars were more similar to the European sleepers, with a high third berth (although these had ample bars to protect one from falling to one’s death or serious injury). Thankfully I was in the middle berth, so I didn’t have to worry too much anyhow.  Unlike the beds on the European sleepers, the mattresses here were frighteningly thin.  I may have been sleeping on a tabletop.  That said, I slept pretty well.  I think I’ve inherited my father’s ability to sleep anywhere.

We’re supposed to be picked up by bus, but instead we have to walk about a kilometre to wait for the bus elsewhere.  On board, we make our way uneventfully east towards the coast, and  Halong Bay.

After much waiting around at the boat terminal, we get split into different groups and board our junks.  On board are two Danes, Ceceilie and Louise; two Malaysians, Lynette and Li Sa; an Australian, Kym; two American’s, Steven and Benson; and Henri, Cedric and William from Montreal. 

Our first stop is a huge cave – easily the nicest, and biggest, I’ve seen so far.  There are actually two caves, but only Kym and I investigate the second.  I meet two Vietnamese girls in the cave, who come as often as they can.  This is their third visit.

Back on the junk, after our tasty seafood lunch, we’re supposed to do some kayaking.  Our guide tells us we only have half an hour to kayak, so the majority of us don’t bother.  Only the Malaysians and Americans give it a go.  I was kayaking only a week ago, so I’m not too fussed. 

We chat after dinner, anchored not far from where we were kayaking.  Women on boats approach the junk, trying to sell us food and drink.  Ours is the only boat that spins in circles (albeit slowly) throughout the night. 

Henri and I are to share a room, but it’s near the engine, and is far too loud, and smells too terrible.  We’re afraid the fumes will kill us, so Henri sleeps on deck, and I sleep in the dining area where we feel we’re more like to wake up alive.

I visit the local market and have no luck finding a small shoulder bag, or any clothes.  The receptionist/owner at the guesthouse circled my map with the location of some computer stores, so I head there to find  a card reader that might actually last me more than a week.  Success (I hope).

I spend far too much of the day on the internet, uploading pictures.  All caught up, I head to the Temple of Literature on motorbike, and take some more photos (so much for being caught up).  I decide to walk home, but there’s really not too much to see en route. 

At night I grab a chocolate/banana shake at the cafe across the street.  It’s fantastic, and I have a great view of the city below. 

We waste some time in the morning before we have to head to the airport. Jess, who is heading back to New Zealand, and I are supposed to go together, but she’s not back from the internet cafe, so we (Sharon is tagging along just to say goodbye) wait a little longer.

Finally on our way, we manage to find Catherine (who is also heading home) immediately. jess and I check-in, then get a security guard to take a group photo. He struggles with the concept of holding down the button till it clicks, so we recruit a tourist to take it. He struggles as well, but manages in the end. My flight is the first to depart, so I hug everyone goodbye, and head to the departure gate. I’ll see Catherine in Canada, and Sharon in Canada too, unless I see her in Vietnam first. Jess assures me she’ll visit (because I owe her a dollar).

The flight makes a stopover in Luang Prabang before continuing on to Hanoi. I take some pictures from the plane, but they don’t really turn out.

I grab a cab from the airport into Hanoi. There’s a recommended hotel, but I have to wait to see the room. I chat with a girl from Sydney who is on her honeymoon (no husband in sight though) for a bit, then check out the room. Overpriced, and it looks like it’s normally used by the staff, so I pass. I walk aimlessly in search of another place – finding a dorm room for $4 a night, but I’m a little wary. I run into a British couple I had met on the slowboat to Luang Prabang, and find out where they’re staying. I head in that direction, when a woman runs up to me and asks me to check out her hotel. I do, and it turns out to be just fine. Oh, and there’s free internet, which is a nice bonus.

Thrilled with the high speed internet, I try and upload my photos, but my $1 card reader seems to have kicked the bucket. Hanoi is loud, and busy, but I take to it immediately. I go in search of some earplugs, to help block out the street noise overnight, but I have no luck. I grab some dinner, then head to the hotel.The satellite tv doesn’t have much of interest, so I read for a bit and sleep.

We get up early early to take the tuk tuk to Angkor Wat for sunrise.  Julien and Sharon show up a few minutes later, and then I run into Louisa and Beth again.  One of the guys from the Plain of Jars tour is also in attendance.  Small world, this Southeast Asia.  It’s too cloudy for a spectacular sunrise, so we get some breakfast before Jess and I check out Angkor Wat. 

It’s huge and amazing, and thankfully not too crowded.  We wander around for a while there, then get in the tuk tuk to Angkor Thom.  Angkor Thom has a bunch of smaller temples, and we check out Bayon first, which is probably my favourite.  Lots of towers, with heads atop them.  Next we investigate the Elephant terraces.  A young kid leads us to a temple, and Jess is certain we’re going to be killed, but instead he wants some money for taking us the long way to the temple.  When we ignore his request, he doesn’t seem too surprised.  Last up is   Ta Prohm, where they filmed one of the Tomb Raider movies. 

In the afternoon, Sarat, the owner of the guesthouse, takes me to book a flight to Hanoi for the next day.  My initial plan was to start in the south and head north, but plans were meant to be changed.

Catherine, Jess, and I meet Pen and Wiki for dinner and some drinks.  We say goodbye to Pennie and Wiki for the forseeable future, and check out the Beatocello film near the children’s hospital.  It focuses on Dr. Beat, a Swiss doctor, who pushes for better aid for the children of Cambodia. 

Next we head to the night market so Catherine and Jess, who both go home tomorrow, can get some souvenirs.  After that, it’s my last sleep in Cambodia.

The original plan is to visit the wats with Julien and Sharon, but Jessica and I are up early, and decide to leave a note and head out ourselves.

We figure we’ll start with the typical day 2 itinerary, so we can bump into Catherine and not have to worry about seeing the sunrise, which is usually done on day 1.  Our first sop is Preah Khan, which is quite nice.  We bump into Catherine on the way out.  We check out Neak Pean and Ta Som as well.  We stumble across a snake at one point, which was cool.  Checked out a few smaller temples too, then headed back to the guesthouse.

We like our driver enough to arrange for him to pick us up early the next morning for sunrise.  After lunch and a rest, Jess and I ehad downtown.  She wants a massage, done by the blind, and I plan on checking the internet situation out.  Hoping for a fast connection.  Instead I get a haircut and trim my beard. Despite the lack of a common language, it doesn’t look too bad.

Jess and I meet Catherine at the Deadfish restaurant.  I’ve left a note with Pennie and Wiki, but I check my email later and have a note from them to meet elsewhere.  I head over to the spot they suggested, running into Louisa and Beth again, but Pennie and Wiki aren’t around.  I assume they’ve headed to the Deadfish, and when I get back there, they’re already sitting with Catherine and Jessica.  Julien and Sharon join us eventually and we have a decent meal.  The restaurant has some crocodiles in it, and some Cambodian dancing, which is interesting.  There’s some confusion over the bill, but it more or less gets sorted in the end.  We have to get up early, so we get to bed pretty quickly.